top of page

Le Vrai Paris: A Not So Touristy 48 Hours (jour 1)

Photos taken/written by Jennifer Mahon

 
Man jumping on a dirt pathway in Paris
 

So… I decided to hop on a flight last week for a whirlwind weekend in Paris. Perks of working in the travel industry, right? It was totally unplanned and super last minute—Thursday to Sunday, which really means Friday afternoon to Sunday morning… and that translates to barely 48 hours in the City of Light!


Having been to Paris quite a few times already, this little adventure was all about exploring the not-so-touristy parts of the city. For those of you who know me, it won’t surprise you that there was no plan or itinerary. I mean, sure, I love Paris, but I skipped the usual Champs-Elysées, River Seine, and even (gasp!) Eiffel Tower—well, except for a tiny peek because, let’s be real, you can see it from practically anywhere in the city.


FRIDAY AFTERNOON...

We landed, hopped on the RER B from CDG to Gare du Nord (9 € each way), and were greeted by… rain. Not just rain, but full-on torrential downpour. Because, of course, that’s what happens when you’ve got limited time in Paris. After checking in at our hotel in Pigalle, buying a flimsy tourist umbrella, and getting some local tips from Parisian friends, we set off to check out the Galeries and Passages of Paris. These covered shopping arcades were designed to keep wealthy folks dry and mud-free back in the day, and now they’re perfect for a rainy Parisian afternoon.


Photos: But first, coffee at Café de Luna, then covering up tight to shelter from the rain


Photos: Paris metro, old buildings and people watching

 
GALERIE VÉRO-DODAT

Tucked between Palais Royal and Les Halles, you’ll find Galerie Véro-Dodat—built in 1826 by (get this) two butchers! This charming passage connects Rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs to Rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau and is home to beautifully painted ceilings, paneled shopfronts, and a delightful mix of boutiques. From furniture and art to antiques and musical instruments, it’s got something for everyone. Oh, and if you’re in the mood for luxury, there’s even a Christian Louboutin boutique!


Photos: Galerie Véro-Dodat 

 
GALERIES DU PALAIS-ROYAL

Next up, we hit the Galeries du Palais-Royal, right next to the Louvre. The shops here surround a gorgeous garden, and let me tell you—the collection of stores is fancy. Think Marc Jacobs, Rick Owens, Didier Ludot, Pierre Hardy, Stella McCartney... and the list goes on. Definitely not friendly on my wallet, but it’s perfect for a stroll. The shopfronts blend modern signage with old-school façades from decades past, which makes window-shopping extra fun. There are also a few restaurants, including Le Grand Vefour, where a dessert costs 40 €, but I’ll just imagine it’s delicious and keep walking, thanks.


Photos: Sights as you walk out of the Louvre metro


Photos: Galeries du Palais-Royal and its gardens

 
BIBLIOTHÈQUE FRANÇOIS MITTERRAND

We hopped on the metro again and headed to the 14e arrondissement to check out the Bibliothèque François Mitterrand (Metro line 14). Also known as the BnF (Bibliothèque nationale de France), this place is an architectural wonder. It features a massive courtyard with a forest (yes, a forest!) surrounded by four L-shaped buildings meant to resemble open books. Built in the 1990s, it’s a seriously impressive sight, and I can only imagine what treasures are hidden inside. We didn’t go exploring—we stuck to the main floor to escape the rain, rest our feet, and make the most of the free WiFi (and recharge our phones, of course!).


Photos: On our way to the BnF


Photos: BnF - Bibliothèque nationale de France (François Mitterand) 

 
PASSAGE JOUFFROY

After recharging (both literally and figuratively), we jumped on the metro and got off at Grands Boulevards to meet a friend in front of Musée Grévin. This area is packed with covered passages, and the first one we hit was Passage Jouffroy—hands down, one of the most elegant. With its restored marble floor, cast iron columns, and glass roof, it’s a beauty. Built in 1836, this passage is home to all kinds of quirky businesses: the Musée Grévin (wax museum), Salon des Miroirs (a former 19th-century brasserie), La Cure Gourmande (biscuits, cakes, nougat, and chocolates galore), Pain D’épices (an old-fashioned toy shop), Segas (specializing in antique canes and walking sticks), and Hôtel Chopin. Turn the corner at the hotel, and you’ll find yourself in Libraire du Passage, filled with old books, stationery, and plenty of other fun treasures to browse.


Photos: Outdoor market on our walk to Passage Jouffroy


Photos: Passage Jouffroy


PASSAGES BERGÈRE & VERDEAU

After exiting Passage Jouffroy, we crossed Rue de la Grange Batelière and found ourselves in Passage Bergère and Passage Verdeau. Built in 1847, these passages are super cute, with their charming vibe and a collection of antique dealers and unique shops that make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.


Photos: Passages Bergère and Verdeau

 
PASSAGE DES PANORAMAS

Leaving Passage Verdeau and looping around Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, we made our way back to Boulevard Montmartre and into Passage des Panoramas, which sits across from Passage Jouffroy. Built in 1799, it’s the oldest of the covered walkways and is packed with shops and tempting restaurants. The smell of different cuisines—French, Indian, Moroccan, and more—fills the air, making it almost impossible to resist grabbing a bite.


Photos: Passage des Panoramas

 
FRIDAY EVENING...

At some point during our passage explorations, the sun decided to clock out. So, we hopped on the metro (again!) and headed to République to check out the area and, more importantly, grab some food.


PLACE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE

We stepped out of the metro and landed at Place de la République, one of Paris’s most iconic squares. This spot is famous for its outdoor parties (think gay pride), concerts, political speeches, and manifestations (because, France). The giant monument in the centre? It’s been there since 1883 and stands about 9.5 meters tall—hard to miss!


Photos: Place de la République


CANAL SAINT-MARTIN

A short walk across the square and a few blocks later, we found ourselves along Canal Saint-Martin. This gentrified 19th-century waterway is usually buzzing with a trendy crowd. In the summer, people are hanging out by the canal, strumming guitars, sipping drinks, and just chilling. But on a cold, rainy November night? Not a soul in sight. Still, it was beautiful to see the locks, iron footbridges, and vaulted tunnels, even without the usual lively atmosphere.


Photos: Canal Saint-Martin

 
LE COMPTOIR GÉNÉRAL

Now, Le Comptoir Général is a true hidden gem. If you’re not with a local, good luck finding it! Tucked away down a pitch-black alley with only a pink neon arrow to guide you, this place is all kinds of eclectic and unexpected. Inside, it’s massive—think Afro-Cuban vibes, museum-like exhibits, a cafeteria-style food hall, and a lounge with mismatched tables and sofas. There’s also a dance floor, a Little Shop of Horrors-style room with plants growing everywhere, and live music. We grabbed some food—curry chicken and rice for me and my Parisian friend, and a plantain and accras salad for my vegetarian buddy—along with a generous pour of Planteur (a rum punch). Then we found a seat, ate, drank, and did some top-notch people watching.


Photos: Le Comptoir Général 

 

I can’t believe how much we crammed into our first day—especially since we landed around noon! Time to get some sleep, because tomorrow’s another packed day.

Recent Posts

See All

Comments


bottom of page