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Le Vrai Paris: A Not So Touristy 48 Hours (jour 2)

Photos taken/written by Jennifer Mahon

 
Le Vrais Paris cafe with two older gents sitting outside
 

Continuation of this last-minute weekend adventure (part un click here, part deux below), where we explore the not so touristy spots and places you might not think you could get to.


SATURDAY MORNING...

Thank goodness the sunrise isn’t until 8 am (unlike that 6 am Eiffel Tower sunrise I did back in May!). My sunrise spot this time? The Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre. Full confession: I may have hit the snooze button one too many times and kinda missed the sunrise. But hey, with the grey, cloudy skies, it didn’t matter all that much.


BASILIQUE DU SACRÉ-CŒUR DE MONTMARTRE

I hopped off the Anvers metro (M2 line) and walked the two blocks up Rue de Steinkerque to Place Saint-Pierre, where the entrance to the funicular is. Sure, I could’ve walked up the 250 steep stairs, but the funicular was included with my Paris Visite 3-day metro pass, so I took the easy way up. At that time of the morning, I had the place practically to myself. How have I been to Paris this many times and never done this before? The views are absolutely stunning from up here!


Photos: Funiculaire de Montmartre | Early rainy morning at the top of Montmartre - you can see the Montparnasse tower reaching for the clouds 


Photos: Sacré-Cœur - Great views of the city from up here

 
PLACE DU TERTRE

A short walk past the basilica, and I found myself at Place du Tertre, where a few artists were setting up their easels for the day. It’s still early, so not much action yet, but it’s a nice quiet moment before the crowds and overpriced portraits take over.


Photos: Streets around the basilica


Photos: Streets around Place du Terte

 
A WALK THROUGH MONTMARTRE

I took the funicular back down and wandered onto Rue Yvonne le Tac. The shops were just starting to open, and of course, the boulangeries were in full swing! I couldn’t help but smile at the sight of stereotypical Parisians walking by with a baguette—or a whole paper sack full of baguettes under their arm!


Photos: Sights on a the walk from the basilica to the cemetery

 
CIMETIÈRE DE MONTMARTRE

After a stroll down Boulevard de Clichy (right by Moulin Rouge), I decided to check out the Cimetière de Montmartre (entrance at 20 Avenue Rachel). It's free to wander through, and with its beautiful old crypts and cobblestone streets, it’s hauntingly peaceful. I believe you can even get a map showing where famous Parisians like Dalida are buried. It’s definitely worth taking it slow and soaking in the history.


Photos: Cimetière de Montmartre 

 
SATURDAY AFTERNOON...

After a solo morning, it was time to meet up with my travel buddy at La Chapelle metro. But first, I took the metro a couple more stops to Jaurés, which is along Canal Saint Martin.


LA ROTONDE DE LA VILLETTE

The “Wall of the Farmers-General” was built between 1784 and 1791 and now roughly follows metro lines 1 & 2. Back in the day, it had 61 toll barriers, but only 4 remain today. The most impressive of them? The Barrière Saint-Martin in Rotonde de la Villette (also known as Place Stalingrad). It’s a pretty cool piece of history still standing in the middle of the city.


Photos: La Rotonde de la Villette by Canal Saint-Martin

 
CREIL (BY ACCIDENT)

I walked the couple stops to meet my friend and we headed to Gare du Nord to take one of the TER (regional) lines. Our destination is to be Chantilly (about 30 minutes by train, cost of 8€ each way), to check out the Château and visit his friend living in the neighbouring town of Senlis.


But, in true travel adventure fashion, we missed our stop when the doors wouldn’t open! We ended up in Creil, with 45 minutes to kill before the next train. So, what do we do? We grab a croissant and café (because what else do you do?) and stroll through an outdoor market at Place Carnot, which had everything from veggies to clothes. After a little wander, we made it back to the train station.


Photos: A walk around Creil to see the market at Place Carnot and the River Oise

 
CHÂTEAU DE CHANTILLY

We finally made it to Chantilly, where my travel buddy's friend picked us up and off we went to Château de Chantilly. We didn’t go inside, but the grounds were stunning, even with the gloomy weather. The Petit Château and Grand Château are picture-perfect postcard material, and the Grand Stables nearby are just as impressive. The Musée Condé, located inside the Grand Château, has an amazing collection of paintings if you have time to check it out.


Photos: Finally in Chantilly!


Photos: Château de Chantilly

 
SENLIS

Just a 10-minute drive from Chantilly lies the stunning old town of Senlis. Wow. This place is seriously ancient and seriously beautiful. It’s the kind of town where you can easily spend a couple of hours just wandering the narrow streets, grabbing a coffee and pastry halfway through, and then continuing your stroll. I love exploring old towns like this—you never know what hidden gems you’ll stumble upon.


The streets are super narrow, and the sidewalks aren’t exactly spacious, so keep an eye out for cars. As you walk, you’ll see everything from old ramparts and stone mansions to charming squares, fountains, and beautiful gardens. Oh, and the churches! Cathédrale de Notre-Dame dominates the skyline with its towering spire—it was built between the 12th and 13th centuries. Not to be outdone, there’s also the Church of Saint-Pierre, which is even older, dating back to the early 12th century.


Photos: A walk around the beautiful city of Senlis


Photos: Time for another coffee break


Photos: Exploring Senlis some more and catching Cathédrale de Notre-Dame and Church of Saint-Pierre during golden hour

 
SATURDAY EVENING...

Back in Paris by 6 pm, we made a quick stop at the hotel to rest our feet before heading out again.


BASILIQUE DU SACRÉ-CŒUR DE MONTMARTRE (ROUND 2)

So, I found myself back at Sacré-Cœur, this time for the amazing nighttime views—and they did not disappoint! Unlike the quiet morning visit, the place was packed with people—both tourists and locals—just soaking in the views or singing along with street musicians on the steps. It had a whole different vibe, and it was awesome.


That said, watch out for the aggressive souvenir sellers at the bottom and top of the hill, and be mindful of your stuff—when it’s this crowded, pickpockets are definitely on the prowl!



Photos: La Basilique du Sacré Cœur de Montmartre at night

 
HÔTEL DE VILLE

We took the metro and made our way over to the Hôtel de Ville, a stunning 14th-century building located just north of Cathédrale Notre-Dame. The architecture is breathtaking, and the square hosts events throughout the year. Fun fact: Inside, there’s a replica of the Versailles Hall of Mirrors!


LE MARAIS

We wrapped up the night with a stroll through Le Marais, one of the trendiest (and most historic) neighborhoods in Paris. It’s got that old-school Parisian vibe, with plenty of pre-revolutionary buildings still standing. We didn’t make it into Place des Vosges (the gates were closed), but it’s now on the list for next time! On our way back, we stumbled upon Church Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis—a small, lesser-known gem that’s still stunning.


Photos: Hôtel-de-Ville (formerly place de Grève) and Le Marais

 
SATURDAY NIGHT - SUNDAY MORNING...

By the time we got back to Pigalle, it was well after midnight, and we still hadn’t eaten. We grabbed some quick Lebanese food, and by the time we crashed at the hotel, it was 2 am. With a 5 am wake-up call for the airport, let’s just say it was a whirlwind—as I write this I can’t believe the amount of stuff we crammed into such a short amount of time.


Au revoir, Paris! Until next time!

Le Vrais Paris sign at night
 

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