4 min read

Graz: Perfectly Preserved & Picturesque

Photos taken/written by Jennifer Mahon

EUROPE ROAD TRIP — DAY 12 (OF 19)

After leaving Budapest, we headed west on a 395-km drive to Graz, Austria (roughly 4 hours). Somewhere along the way, we accidentally detoured into Slovenia (oops) and had to buy one of those highway vignettes to drive legally for like, 30 minutes. So, yeah, now I can say I've been to Slovenia! One more country for the list!

I have to admit, Graz wasn’t originally on our radar. Heck, half the places on this trip weren’t! This whole adventure started as a one-week thing with just Prague, Budapest, and Moscow. But since Russia was on unstable ground, I said no to Moscow and suddenly we were planning a 3-week trip to 7 countries and 31 cities. I guess I might have gotten a bit carried away on Google Maps dropping pins everywhere. But Graz, with its perfectly preserved and picturesque Old Town, ended up being a real gem!

GRAZ

Back to Graz! This wasn’t on the itinerary, but after visiting, I’m so glad we ended up here. Graz’s Old Town is an absolute charmer (driving here? Not so much—I may or may not have ended up face-to-face with a streetcar on a one-way street).

But once you’re on foot, it’s lovely! We lucked out with our Hotwire hotel—Palais Hotel Erzherzog Johann—a beautiful old building right next to the Old Town Hall and Square. Graz is a UNESCO City of Design, with a modern side, but you know me—I’m all about the old stuff.

YOU'VE GOTTA SEE...

SCHLOSS EGGENBERG

About 15 minutes from the Old Town (we stopped here before checking into the hotel) is Schloss Eggenberg, one of the most beautiful palaces in the region. It dates back to the 17th century and apparently has 365 windows—one for every day of the year. I didn’t count, but it does make for some dramatic shadows in the inner courtyard. Sadly, we got there just after closing time (story of my life), so we didn’t get to go inside. But walking around the palace and its beautiful park, with peacocks strutting around like they own the place, was magical enough!

Photos: Walking around Schloss Eggenberg

SCHLOSSBERG

Barely a 2-minute walk from our hotel, we stumbled onto Schlossbergplatz, a cute little square lined with shops and restaurants. This is where you can catch the lift up to Schlossberg (aka Castle Hill). There are 260 steep, uneven steps if you’re feeling ambitious, but after a long day of driving? No, thanks! Once you’re at the top, the views of Graz are breathtaking, and you’ll find some fun spots like the old fortress ruins (now an outdoor restaurant with killer views), the Liesl Bell Tower, Hackher-Löwe (Hackher Lion), the gun bastion, a Turkish well, Kasematten Schlossberg Stage and the quirky Uhrturm (Clock Tower) with its reversed hands.

Photo: Schlossbergplatz with the 260 steep steps leading up to Schloßberg (Castle Hill)

Photos: Thank goodness there's a lift up to the top of the hill! | Amazing views of Graz from Schloßberg (Castle Hill)

HACKHER-LÖWE

Up on Castle Hill, you’ll come across the Hackher-Löwe—a monument dedicated to Major Franz Hackher for leading the defense against the French in 1809. It’s a cool spot to check out, especially with those views in the background.

Photo: Hackher-Löwe (Hackher Lion) on Schloßberg (Castle Hill)

KASEMATTEN STAGE

This is another part of the old fortress that’s been repurposed. What used to be food storage and a sometimes-prison is now an open-air theater. It sat unused for a while but got a second life in 1937 with a performance of Beethoven’s Fidelio. Not a bad place for a concert!

Photo: Kasematten Schloßberg Stage - Actually I'm standing on the stage taking this photo

Photos: Still standing on Kasematten Schloßberg Stage, wondering when security will come and tell me to get off

UHRTURM

The Uhrturm is the iconic clock tower that’s been keeping time since 1712. But here’s the quirky bit—the hour hand is longer than the minute hand. Why? Who knows. But it’s been standing tall since 1550 and remains the symbol of Graz.

Photos: Uhrturm (Clock Tower) at Schloßberg (Castle Hill)

YOU'VE GOTTA EAT AT...

CAFÉ SACHER

I know, I know—everyone thinks of the Vienna location, but the Café Sacher in Graz is a hidden gem! It’s not touristy or overpriced like its Vienna sibling, and the service was top-notch.We took our waiter’s recommendations, and everything was delicious. And, of course, we had schnitzel because when in Austria, right?

Photos: Café Sacher